Appetites.us
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About Appetites.us
Former one word, exceptionally brandable domain representing Appetites - a record of where I've eaten and what's going on in the New Orleans restaurant scene generally. Musings about food and eating. Restaurant reviews, recipes and the like.
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An Open Letter to the Food Network
Let me start by stating the obvious. This is my opinion; my tastes are my own, and they're extremely subjective. What follows is more or less a rant about how the Food TV network chooses programs to air.
For the last few months, I've begun to notice something about the Food Network. I don't watch a lot of TV, but I have a set in my kitchen, and it's generally on while I'm cooking. If there's no soccer on, or if I'm not interested in the Daily Show's current features, it's been tuned to the Food Network.
More and more, however, I'm finding that during the times I'm home watching TV, I have no interest in what's showing on that channel. Let me give you an example. Tonight when I got home, and started to cook, I watched a bit of Alton Brown's show, Good Eats. I like Alton Brown, even though the show tends towards the silly. Right after Brown's show, however, is an exercise in advertising called, "Unwrapped."
It's pretty typical of what's on during "prime time" on the Food Network these days. Here's the blurb that describes the show at Food TV's website:
Ever wondered where the tiny marshmallows in your breakfast cereal came from? Have we got a show for you! Each week, Unwrapped uncovers behind-the-scenes details on classic American food, from peanut butter and chocolate syrup to French fries and bubblegum. Join host Marc Summers as he explores the test kitchens and the secrets behind lunch box treats, soda pop, movie candy, and more. Unwrapped--the show for everyone who's ever worn a pair of wax lips.
I'm not sure I can express how little this interests me. And from what I've seen of the show, and shows like it ("Roker on the Road," "Food Finds," "Follow that Food," and "All American Festivals,") it's largely an extended advertisement for the featured topic. Here's the blurb, again from the Food TV website, on the episode that aired at 6:30 p.m. CST,
Marc Summers takes a biteout of Cookie Snacks. Find out how Otis Spunkeyer makes their cookies so soft, visit the World's Largest Cookie, sample a movie candy made of cookie dough and see how Ben & Jerry's mixes up Cookie Dough ice cream.
Oh boy. Just how does Otis Spunkmeyer make their cookies so soft? I'd know the answer, but I'd rather disembowel myself than watch that show. So my theory is that Otis Spunkmeyer puts puppies in their cookies to make them soft*Instead of educating myself on the nuances of mass-produced cookies, I was watching Discovery TV, which was airing a couple of episodes of Great Chefs, the venerable tv show that started on PBS, and which focuses on three or more chefs from all over the world on each show. The food is always beautiful, with minimal interference from the narrator. It's one of the first food shows I remember really getting into, and it remains one of my favorites. I'm just glad it's still out there among the Emerils, Bobby Flays, and Rachel "Gatemouth" Ray.
Okay, that last bit about Rachel Ray having a mouth the size of a barn door was a bit much, but you get my point. And I don't mean to denigrate what Emeril, in particular, has done for the popularity of cooking by any means. He's sort of the Tiger Woods of food programming. But there's got to be a balance, doesn't there? At some point? Because right now, it seems to me that the Food TV network is in danger of turning into a caricature.
So what would I like to see? How about a televised version of the New York Times "The Chef" articles? Give Marc Bittmann a camera crew and a few hundred thousand bucks and turn him loose to cook at home with professional chefs. I'd watch that in a heartbeat.
How about a James Beard Foundation show, featuring footage of meals cooked by chefs given the honor of hosting meals at the Foundation's dining room in NYC? It would be a fantastic way to introduce new chefs, and a kick-ass "reality" tv show to boot.
How about a show featuring a debonnaire New Orleans attorney who by day blogs about cooking and restaurants, but by night fights crime armed only with a 10 inch Sabattier Chef's knife?
My wife just pointed out that the latter idea might have a somewhat limited audience, which, significantly, wouldn't include her. But my point remains. I love that we have an entire channel devoted to food and cooking; it's certainly more than I expected when I was becoming interested in food. But is it really necessary to sink to shows about Otis freaking Spunkmeyer cookies, and why they're so soft?
Maybe it is, I guess I don't have my finger on the pulse of the demographic the food network advertisers are trying to reach. But the way I figure it, if you actually made quality food-related programming, people who are, you know, interested in food, would tune in. Am I alone in this?
Also, am I alone in thinking that Rachel Ray could swallow a suckling pig in one bite? HELLO? IS THIS THING ON?
*Otis Spunkmeyer does not, to my knowledge, put puppies in their cookies. They use the puppies for brownies.
Posted by on July 13, 2004 9:13 PM | Permalink
Comments
Otis Spunkmeyer is a great porn name. For that, and other reasons, I've never eaten one of his cookies.
But you're right about the Food Network. Whatever happened to the spirit of the great British shows? Two Fat Ladies, Jamie Oliver, and his forefather Keith Floyd all had fantastic shows featuring witty hosts that knew when to take a back seat to the simple, creative, and tradition-rich dishes that they worked HARD to make in "real-time".
The whole thing smacks of advertising, when what I want are short films about chefs in action in their own kitchens.
Grilling with Bobby Flay sometimes comes close, but the man needs to buy a sense of humor.
Let the rant continue...
Posted by: Ian | July 13, 2004 11:14 PM
I don't mind looking at Rachel Ray, but that laugh is the worst. In her defense, her's is a show that demonstrates some technique, and features some things that are useful for quick weekday meals. There is an over-reliance on processed food, and sometimes the dishes she prepares are so rudimentary I wonder why she bothers, but there are worse programs.
I mostly watch FoodTV on the plane as I shuttle back and forth between the Big Apple and The Queen City of the Lakes, so I am usually not watching during prime time. "Molto Mario" is always good-- I have learned a lot from it. Bobby Flay is annoying, but can be a source for some decent ideas. Emeril's schtick was tired after two weeks, but I never fail to see something that I want to try when I watch it.
The shows that focus on cooking things are what I like. The shows that focus on eating things-- usually sweet, processed things, it seems to me-- are less amusing. The show that features Rachel Ray eating things is the least appealing, because she laughs a lot on it.
Posted by: Bill Altreuter | July 14, 2004 8:11 AM
I read your post 3 times. Carefully. I'm doing my yoga breathing and loving every last second.